DIY Multiple Cup Turner

After searching and searching for a cup turner to be just the way I wanted it I finally gave up and took to the internet. I spent A LOT of time at Lowes and Home Depot trying to figure out and wrap my head around exactly what I was trying to accomplish. SO here we go! Hope it helps you and if you have questions don’t hesitate to reach out to me! 

My husband and I started by making the “box” it consist of (2) 40in pieces of 1in thick wood ( its not an actual 1in thick its more like 3/4 but its labeled 1in at the stores) 1 of those 40in pieces is 7 1/4 tall and the other is 5 1/4 tall. This is vary depending how high or low you want your cups to sit off of your table and where you put your holes. The sides are 5 1/4 tall x 5 1/2 wide. These are nailed/glued together to make a “box” BEFORE attaching everything we drilled holes about 1” in diameter through the taller back piece of the box (7 1/4). I spaced mine roughly 8in from center of the hole to the next center of the hole. We used a round hole cutter and a drill press, the same can be done with a paddle bit and a power drill.  Next, we took the shorter front piece of the box  and cut 1/2 circles off of the top of the wood so that they lined up with the holes cut previously in the back piece. You are creating an arm rest for your PVC so it doesn’t sag. You will also need some sort of thin wood attached to either end to make legs, I learned the hard way that it will tip over. Sorry we didn’t take pictures of this, but it is pretty simple. If you are like me and need to see a pictures let me know and Ill get one for you but you should be able to see how it was done in later pictures on this post. 

Holes and Half circles to hold your arms steady and keep them from sagging.. 
These are the motors we are using, you can get them on AMAZON I got 4 for I think 17.99 with free 2 day shipping.

Now the fun part figuring out the arms and making everything connect to spin and what is needed from the store.. These are the items we bought from Lowe’s All of the white PVC parts were found in the PVC connector section and the black plunger part was found in plumbing. WHEN YOU ARE LOOKING FOR THESE PARTS DONT TELL THEM WHAT YOU ARE TRYING TO DO, THEY GET VERY CONFUSED AND ALL OF A SUDDEN HAVE NO CLUE WHAT YOU ARE LOOKING FOR! or where to find it! LOL 🙂 

This is the labels for the PVC pieces we got, you will need 3/4 in PVC Pipe for these. 
Picture 1 – the 2 coupler/connector pieces and the plunger 
Picture 2 _ the bushing inserted into the plunger (you really have to put some umph into it to get it in there)
Picture 3 – the adapter screwed into the bushing, this is where your PVC arm will go and attach to the turner and your plunger will be in your cup

Now that you have your pieces and parts you need to connect everything. We got a long 3/4 dowel for Lowes or Home Depot as well. Each piece was cut to about 2.5 – 3 inches long and needed to be sanded down just a bit to make it a tad smaller to pit into the end of the adjustable repair coupling (shown in photo above) You will also need cotter pins for this step as well. We drilled a hole into the end of each dowel just big enough to fit the motor arm into, you only need to drill about 1/2 inch into the dowel. You can use a drill press, or Dremel but it is IMPORTANT that you get it as straight and centered as humanly possible. FYI this is a pain in the ass to get right! This hold your motor arm up to the down and put a mark on the side of the dowel where the hole in the motor arm is, then drill a hole just large enough for the cotter pin to go through but not the head of the pin. Put your dowel on the motor arm, your cotter pin though and bend the arms of the cotter pin back so you end up with this.…..

Now you want to put that dowel through the hole you drilled in your taller piece of wood (once the box is assembled) center it and screw your motor to the back of the wood and you will have this.. 

The switch was already there I will go into that shortly. 

Ok now that this is secure, you will take your adjustable repair coupling and put the part that extends (yes its extendable! How genius is that!) onto the dowel, PUSH HARD making sure to support the motor so that you don’t push it out and drill a WOOD screw through the PVC into the dowel arm so that it stays secure ( I clearly still need to do this and don’t have a photo of it) Once that is complete you will have this…. 

this cool part about this piece is you can insert your PVC arm with your cup on the end of this and leave it because that first circle part with ridges screws into the part that is attached to the dowel. SO MUCH EASIER FOR REMOVING ARMS! 

Now we attach our arm with the plunger attachment and get this.. 

Pop your cup on the end and start epoxying! 

Ok the switches.. this part sucks and my hubby definitely was the master mind for this.. We got the cheap basic light switches and I knew I wanted each motor to run independently but didn’t want to have to have 5 separate plugs.. Here is where things get messy… We attached the light switch to the top of the back piece on the top so it could be easily accessible ( if I wanted it prettier we would have cut out squares large enough for me to put the back of the switch and the wire into the wood making the light switch flush and then covered with a light switch cover. I didn’t care about all of that because I am not selling these so it didn’t need to be pretty just functional). We had a spool of wire that we took each motor wire and spliced it into the one long wire and ran it to the end of the box adding each motor wire to it as we got to the next one until they were all attached to the one long wire. We then took a lamp switch and wired the one long wire (with all the motor wired spliced into it) and spliced it into the lamp switch wire. This allows us to plug in ONE plug and run each motor switch independently. Right now we have it all stapled to the back (again not pretty) we are working on making a false bottom in the center of the box to house all the wires under the false bottom. If you enclose it you will have to take everything apart to replace anything as needed.  For this just use shelf pegs and a thin piece of luan wood to sit on top of the pegs to hide the wires under it. Now you can just turn it over to access your wires if needed.  

Here is our mess of wires right now.. 

this is why I want to make the false bottom so I can run the wires thought a small hole to the inside of the box and just cover it with thin wood (luan wood) that sits on shelf pegs. 
running it to one switch to allow power to the individual light switches. 

I really hope this helps yall, I know I went through trial and lots of error before getting it like I wanted it. Sure I could buy one for $150+ but why when I can make it for way less and make changes to it to suit my needs. 


HUGE shout out to my amazing hubby for always helping me with my crazy projects and getting this just right for me! 

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